Frequently Asked Questions

How much audio can I fit on a record?

These are the side lengths for each record size...

7" RECORDS

  • 4 minutes 30 seconds per side @ 45 RPM
  • 6 minutes per side @ 33 RPM

10" RECORDS

  • 9 minutes 48 seconds per side @ 45 RPM
  • 13 minutes 14 seconds per side @ 33 RPM
How do I prepare my audio files?
  • .WAV is our preferred format, but we can work with most file types.
  • Mono is preferred to stereo. All files will be summed to mono by the cutting EQ chain. No responsibility will be taken for phasing issues.
  • -1.5dB is a safe level to master your tracks to as to avoid clipping issues.
How long will it take you to make my records?

Turnaround is generally 2-3 weeks from the day that all audio, label artwork and payment are received.

If you require a quicker turnaround there is a 20% charge for a rush order (To be posted in 1 week from your order date.)

Can you organise packaging and artwork?

We have templates for hand-folded covers available HERE, but we are currently unable to print covers ourselves.

You're welcome to use our templates, but you'll have to organize printing and assembly yourself.

If you need help with artwork layout and design, leave a note in your order and we can recommend a designer who can layout your artwork files for a $30 fee.

Is there an audible difference between 45 RPM and 33 RPM?

A record cut at 45 RPM should provide more volume, top end and detail than 33 RPM, due to the stylus covering more distance over the same period of time.

However this difference may or may not be noticed depending on your playback turntable, amplifier, speakers or ears.

How many plays will I get from my lathe cut record?

An embossed polycarbonate record is of a similar durability to a pressed record.

(Traditionally cut lacquer and acetate records are less durable.)

Are there potential playback issues?

Johnny Electric's stylus doesn't remove any material from the record blank - it impresses a mono groove into the disc.

This results in a shallower impression than a regular record, so embossed discs can sometimes be unforgiving when played on incorrectly-configured turntables.

Frequencies around 230HZ often need to be limited to stop the playback needle from sliding out of the groove, which can cause skipping.

If you have any issues, try the following...

LEVEL YOUR TURNTABLE

A poorly leveled turntable can cause the needle to slide across the record.

SET YOUR ANTI-SKATE

If the stylus is sliding across the record towards the spindle, you should turn up your anti-skate.

If the stylus is sliding away from the spindle, you should turn down your anti-skate

INCREASE YOUR TRACKING WEIGHT

All our records are tested on...

  • A Project Turntable with a AT95E Cartridge and no anti-skate and tracking weight set to 2g
  • A Technics SL-J90 Turntable with fixed spring anti-skate and tracking weight
  • JE Linear Tracking Turntable with a Grado Red Cartrdige

With anti-skate set correctly, there should be no tracking issues. If your record is skipping or sliding, increasing the tracking weight should resolve the problem.

6g of tracking weight would be on the extreme end, and 3-4g would be closer to the maximum recommended weight.

SURFACE NOISE

If the audio quality of an embossed polycarbonate disc begins to degrade, we recommend cleaning both the record and your stylus.

Polycarbonate can develop a strong static charge, which attracts dust that can lead to crackles and pops. Try cleaning it with a record brush or a soft anti-static cloth.

If you spill something on your record, it can be cleaned with Shellite, which is also used to remove the residual adhesive layer from the record blank when it's cut. This won't harm the record, and dries quickly without any residue.

HEAT

Polycarbonate is less likely to warp in heat than a standard pressed record, but it does hold a thermal memory, which means the plastic will try to return to it's original cast form when it gets too hot.

The higher frequencies (7kHz+) will be the first to degrade. This happens at about 60-70C.